Things I Learned at Work: Fabric Dyeing

The exciting thing about working in Theatre is that no two shows are anything like each other. Because of this I have found that you never get through a show without learning something new. This is a series designed to share the things I've picked up on the job.

Before this show I could count the number of pieces I had dyed on one hand. Since the designer I worked with on this play decided to buy white fabric and dye it as needed, I now consider myself something of an expert. We dyed 38 batches over the span of a week and a half. Here's what I've learned:

1. Use a dye intended for the type of fabric you are dyeing. It makes a HUGE difference. I used Dharma Trading Company's Jacquard Acid Dye for silks and your basic Rit dye for cotton, and I would recommend them both.

2. Make sure your fabric is pure. Synthetics, even a blend of natural and synthetic fiber, resist dye without adding a strong (and expensive!) chemical fastener.

3. Test everything! Even if you're using a single color, dye a sample to see what it will look like when it's dry. If you're mixing colors, label every test with your formula, and test the formula at least twice to make sure you can replicate the color you want. (No two dye batches are exactly the same, but it should be close). Test your large dye batches as well with a sample piece of cloth, so you can be sure you like the color. Once the fabric is in the dye, you're committed!

4. Stove top dyeing, which is the method I used, calls for boiling water. Boiling is necessary for the dye to dissolve completely. If you are having trouble getting the dye to dissolve, mix it in a cup of boiling water first, until dissolved, then add it to the dye bath. Boiling temperatures are not necessary for the fabric to take the dye, but I do recommend hot water at least, to keep the dye from separating out.

5. A higher concentration of dye is usually better. You can get a lighter or less intense color bye leaving your fabric in the dye for a shorter amount of time, but your fabric will only get as dark or intense as the amount of dye in the water. You can always pull it out early if the color looks good, but if the color isn't deep enough, you will have to re-dye it.

6. Air dry the fabric before you wash it. Then wash each piece separately with a few white rags to pick up the dye in the water and keep it from staying in the machine. If you used enough of the fastening agent in the dye bath (salt, vinegar, or a fastening chemical), you should have little to no wash out. I recommend wiping down your washing machine with bleach after each load, just to be safe.

Dyeing fabric is actually a very easy process if you are conscious about using the right materials. My fabric turned out very vibrant and beautiful. I'd be happy to pass on more tips to anyone else who would like to try it.